Rome - April 21

St. Peter's

At last we are in Italy, in the port of Civitavecchia, and able to visit Rome for a full day. We have been in Rome before, traveling with Roger Folstrom and the Maryland Chorale. Our last trip to Rome, we stayed in a hotel near Santa Maria Maggiore church. That time, when we tried to visit the church, the Pope decided to visit it at the same time. As a result we never did see the inside of the church. For today’s trip we have booked a tour called, “Rome on your own.” Jean has copied maps, and we are determined to see the church. The tour will take us to St. Peter’s Square, giving us 7 or 8 hours to see Rome on our own.

The day is sunny, and the temperature in the mid 60s. We are in St. Peter’s Square before 9:00 AM. We set out immediately for the subway - which we take to the major train terminal, a point only a few blocks from the church. April 21st is considered the birthday of Rome, at least it is celebrated on this day. (It’s also Queen Elizabeth’s birthday - the current British monarch). Although Santa Maria Maggiore looks like an 18th century baroque church, it was built in 440, making it one of the oldest churches in Rome. The interior has two rows of columns, and was inspired by the hall-like appearance of ancient Roman civic buildings.  The upper part of the nave has 36 mosaics from the 5th century (somewhat difficult to see), showing scenes from the Old Testament. The church has its own Sistine chapel, decorated with marble statues, but we must be content to view it through a gate, it is closed to the public while mass is being celebrated. The Borghese popes are buried in a neighboring chapel in the church.

Santa Maria Maggiore

Santa Maria's Roman Columns

Sistine Chapel

Detail of Floor

Being in this neighborhood, and armed with good maps, we are able to find the Santa Pressede church.  It contains a small Byzantine chapel whose walls and ceilings are mosaics.  On the wall of the chapel, one figure has a square halo - it is the mother of St. Pasquale I, the pope who built the chapel. The square halo is over the head of Theodora, his mother, who was alive when the chapel was built.

Santa Pressede Church

Byzantine Chpel

Chapel Ceiling

St. Pasqual's Mother (Square Halo)

Interior of St. Pressede

 We want to visit Santa Pudenziana Church as well - but we cannot find it on the map. Jean points out the name to a man in the church that manages the small shop selling postcards. He doesn’t speak English, but he shows us the location on the map, and points out the direction we should go. On our way to the church we encounter a troop of horse cavalry. The riders wear bright chest plates and gold helmets with plumes of horse hair. The horses are jet black and large. There are at least 8 rows of riders. Jean is ecstatic.

Santa PudenzianaThe church is difficult to locate, on a side street, but it has a striking mosaic of Christ teaching the apostles in the apse. Each apostle has individualized expressions - Christ teaches from a throne in the center. The large mosaic dates from the late 4th century.

On our way back, we find a sidewalk café that offers two pasta dishes and a full bottle of wine for 20 euros. We relax for a while, before heading back to St. Peters Square and  the church itself.

Jean at Lunch in Rome

Sumner at Lunch with Jean

 Even with the long lines, we are able to get through security quickly so we can revisit the church, before meeting our bus for the return trip to the ship. We learn that the day before had thunder storms, and municipal employees (including the subway workers) were on strike. The one day’s delay made all the difference.

Dome of St. Peters

Interior Column St. Peter's

St. Peter's Square

Swiss Guards on Duty

Sir David Frost joins the ship while we are in port. He will speak in the theater on the next day, and we will be able to watch the movie, Frost Nixon.

Two more days at sea and we will be at our penultimate port in Portugal.