Alexandria - April 16

Rows of Tour Buses in Alexandria Port

Streets of Alexandria

Today is a holiday in Alexandria - Easter was yesterday for Coptic Christians. This is a holiday for Muslims as well as Christians, even through Egypt is 90 percent Muslim. Children and adults wave at our bus as we pass. Everyone is glad to see tourists. After the revolution, tourist visits are about ten percent of the original figure. Early in the morning when we start, shops are still closed, in part because of the holiday, and in part because Alexandrians are night people.

Jean in front of Qait Bey Fort

We visit the Qait Bey Fort, built on the site of the original Alexandria lighthouse - the lighthouse was one of the seven wonders of the ancient world - destroyed by an earthquake. The Fort was built from the stones of the lighthouse. We have been here before, just after Ramadan, when we were on our tour of Egypt, before the revolution. Again, it was holiday time - many families at the beach. The fort is at one end of a long beach and boulevard in Alexandria.

Modern Alexandria is built on the old city of Alexandria. This is not obvious to the visitor. Much of the original city is underwater, and artifacts are still being identified. The Mediterranean sea level is perhaps 10 meters higher than it was when Alexander founded the city. They are considering constructing an underwater museum. We drive into the old part of the city, to the site of the Catacombs of Shawkafa. The site was a grassy knoll until a donkey fell through a hole in the earth and the 2nd  century funerary complex was discovered in the 20th century. The complex is four levels deep - only three levels can be visited due to ground water in the 4th level. The central tomb belonged to a Roman family, with burial chambers for a husband, wife, and child. The statuary and paintings are a curious mix of upper Egypt symbols and Roman Gods. Anubis is shown with Isis, as though the Roman citizens were about to be embalmed. The complex has been enlarged, perhaps for many family members, with many niches for bodies (empty now). The Romans seem to have been quite flexible in religious matters.

Pompeii's Pillar

Idol under Pompeii's Pillar

We also visit Pompeii’s pillar - 80 feet high - all that remains of the temple that once stood here. The temple had nothing to do with Pompeii, but rather was erected to honor the Emperor Diocletian. The site has two small sphinx that guard the pillar, and some interesting tunnels under the site.

Our guide talks about the revolution - about the optimism when the President first resigned. There was a feeling of pride in the city, a feeling of brotherhood. She has a picture of the celebration in the streets of Alexandria after the President resigned. She shows a picture of her daughter painting the colors of the Egyptian flag on a curb, near their house. Now most of the good feeling is gone. But she is hopeful that things will get better after the election which should happen soon.

Abu El Abbas Mosque

We have a photo stop at the Mosque of Abu El Abbas. Outside the Mosque, in the street, brightly colored children’s rides are being setup, perhaps part of the Easter holiday celebration.  We are back on the ship by early afternoon. This evening we sail into the Mediterranean Sea on our way to Greece.

Easter Rides for Children