Kota Kinabalu - Borneo

Greeting from a headhunter

We arrive at 8:00 AM in Kota Kinabalu, the capital of Sabah (originally North Borneo). We are met at the dock by costumed women who give us beaded necklaces, and costumed warriors (perhaps head-hunter impersonators) making grunting noises, waving spears and shields. The town was originally known as Jesselton. It has a few high-rise buildings, shopping malls, and light industry. A large mosque is on the outskirts, which can hold 5,000 worshippers. The country is officially Moslem - although there are actually more Christians than Muslims.

Mosque in Kota Kinabalu

Orchids on the Mountain

We board a bus, bound for Kinabalu - the highest mountain in Sabah - at 13,431 feet tall. It is Sunday, so traffic is relatively light - at least in the morning. We have over a two hour drive to reach the mountain, and the park which covers most of the mountain. The mountain can be climbed, usually in two days. No special equipment is needed, and there is a rest house half-way up the mountain where one can spend the night. The mountain attracts many Asian visitors, and the trip is like the trip up Mount Fuji in Japan. It’s a popular climb - and it must not be attempted in the rainy season (December - January). Reservations are often made six months in advance, especially around New Years.

In the Cloud Forest

Mount Kinabalu - Almost Seen

We have good luck with the weather - although cloudy, it doesn’t rain and the temperature stays below 80 degrees (unlike the weather in the port as we learn when we return.) The top of the mountain is in clouds - and seeing the mountain is like seeing Mt. McKinley in Alaska - requiring luck and timing. We take a 1 hour hike through the trails, and spend another hour in a reserved area. Most Orchids are not in bloom at this time of year, but we see several small ones, as well as some of the pitcher plants that trap small insects. We are told that some species of these plants can trap mountain rats, and hold two liters of water. We see few animals - and hear a few birds. Because there are few animals, most animals stay below this height - nothing to eat. This is a “cloud forest” - a tropical rain forest fed by moisture from the clouds.

In a Chinese Garden

After our adventures in the forest, we visit a hotel for a Chinese buffet - sweet corn crab soup, sweet and sour chicken, mushrooms, mixed vegetables, beef in a savory sauce, and fruit. The drive back to the ship has a brief stop at a pottery factory, and then we return to the ship about 4:30 PM.

On the bus, our guide provides insight into the history of Borneo, its politics, details of head-hunting, and marriage customs. Most people believe in some form of spirit worship as well as reincarnation. One’s soul goes to Mount Kinabalu where it will be judged.  There are other spirits (mostly in the head) which, with the proper ceremonies can be focused and committed to anything from growing rice to increasing harmony at home, or so the headhunter‘s believed.. We learn that home-brewed rice wine (important for weddings) is best if you discover maggots in the wine after three months - that means it is sweet enough to attract them - a good sign.

We sail at 5:30 PM - bound for Hong Kong in two days. We will be crossing the South China Sea. I sailed in the South China Sea when I was in the Air Force. We could reserve a sail boat at Subic naval base. That was 45 years ago. It’s good to be back.